Michael Catling

All the flavours of an Indian curry are wrapped up in this bold, tangy and aromatic risotto.

A risotto has always been the kind of dish that invites creativity. It’s a canvas for flavour and this time, I’m going big and bold with the vibrant, coastal spices of Goa.

My fusion twist is studded with chicken thighs and marries the sweetness of coconut milk with the saltiness of shrimp paste and the sourness of Thai fish sauce.

The Goan chicken risotto base mellows out the spice of the Goan curry paste, leaving a hum of heat and zing in the background. Serve it with a glass of coconut water and you’ve got a dish that will transport you to tropical climes.

How To Make Goan Chicken Risotto

• Chef Catling’s recipe notes
• Recipe: Goan chicken risotto
• What’s the secret to a great risotto (must read)
• Frequently asked questions

Tips & Notes To Know

• Go vegetation: Substitute the chicken with roasted cauliflower or butternut squash for a plant-based twist.
• Top it like a boss: Crispy onions are my favourite, but a few toasted peanuts or a swirl of chilli oil would be lovely, too.

What’s The Secret To A Great Risotto?

1. Choose the right rice

Long grain rice, like basmati or jasmine, should be nowhere near a risotto. You’ll find that most recipes call for arborio rice, but I prefer to use carnaroli because it produces the best texture (plus it’s harder to overcook).

2. Don’t rinse your rice

Unlike with other types of rice, rinsing risotto rice serves no purpose. The natural starch that is present on the outside of risotto rice is what’s needed to thicken the dish and gives it that smooth, unctuous texture.

By washing the rice, you are getting rid of the starch which will not only affect the texture, but also the cooking time and the consistency of the finished dish.

3. Use a wide, shallow pan

Although I’ve made many risottos in my Le Creuset knock-off, I’ve found it far easier using a wide sauté pan, especially when cooking for my fiancée and I.

The greater surface area means you can comfortably stir the rice and spread it more evenly across the base of the pan.

4. Toast the rice

This step only takes a couple of minutes, but it is vitally important because toasting enhances the rice’s nutty flavour and helps the grains absorb the liquid more evenly. The rice should sizzle as it hits the pan.

You’ll hear a slight popping sound as the rice toasts, but the key is to keep stirring so the grains don’t catch at the bottom of the pan. You’re looking for the grains to become slightly translucent around the edges, not browned.

5. Keep the stock on a rolling boil

Adding cold stock is guaranteed to slow down the cooking process and disrupt the rice’s ability to absorb liquid. Instead, keep the stock simmering on the hob in a separate pot, so you can ladle it into the risotto without losing any temperature.

6. Add the stock gradually

Refrain from tipping all the stock in at once. Add the liquid one ladleful at a time, and wait until the rice has absorbed most of the stock before adding more. This gradual absorption technique is key to developing the creaminess of the risotto as it cooks.

7. Don’t stir for the sake of stirring

Stir the risotto regularly, but not constantly. This helps to coax starch out of the rice, which is needed to create the signature creamy texture of risotto.

However, if you stir too aggressively or often, you risk breaking the grains, which will result in a mushy, porridge-like consistency. A gentle approach is best and will give you a more even and consistent cook on the rice.

8. Consider the cooking time

If you throw the chicken in at the start of the process, the meat will be overcooked by the time the dish is finished. Add it halfway through cooking and let it poach in the liquid.

9. Check the consistency

A properly cooked risotto should spread out on the plate and still have a little bit of liquid in the pan once served. It shouldn’t be soupy or clumpy, but it should have a creamy and loose consistency and enough liquid to create a glossy sauce that coats the rice.

10. Take the taste test

Once all the liquid has been absorbed, the rice should be tender with a slight bite. If the rice is still crunchy, add more stock, simmer gently and check the texture every 2 to 3 minutes. The rice will continue to cook and thicken off the heat, so factor this in to avoid turning your risotto into porridge!

11. Finish with a flourish

Once the risotto is cooked, leave it to rest for 5 minutes. This allows the starches to relax and gives you that velvety and glossy finish – just like you see in the restaurants (and in the above picture, I hope!).

Frequently Asked Questions

What Is Shrimp Paste?

Shrimp paste is a seriously pungent and salty condiment, made from fermented dried shrimp. It is most commonly used in curries, sauces and sambals in Southeast Asian dishes. A little goes a long way, so use sparingly. You can find it in Asian grocers, as well as all major supermarkets.

What Curry Paste Should I Use?

My advice – as with everything – is to always read the label. If you haven’t heard of some of the ingredients listed, you should maybe question whether this is something you want to be putting into your body.

Supermarket shelves can be a bit of a minefield, but I tend to use brands like Spice Tailor and Mae Ploy which use only natural ingredients without any artificial colours, MSG or preservatives.

What Is The Difference Between Using Coconut Milk, Creamed Coconut And Coconut Cream?

I have been caught out before, so it’s worth knowing that creamed coconut and coconut cream are two very different things. Creamed coconut is unsweetened, dried coconut flesh which has been ground down and formed into a semi-solid block.

Coconut cream and coconut milk, on the other hand, are made by combining the same raw ingredient and blending it with water. 

Coconut cream uses a higher proportion of the flesh, hence it is higher in calories and more concentrated like whipped cream.

You can make your own coconut milk for this recipe by diluting a 100g block of creamed coconut (I use Blue Dragon) in 300ml of warm water. A 2:1 ratio of water to coconut cream will also yield the same result.